Replacing Bathroom Faucet and Drain Connections | Home Repair Tutor
Once you have the new faucet picked out, assemble all the parts you need, and double check so you can complete this at one time and without multiple trips to the hardware store. Be sure to specifically check the fittings on the end of the faucet versus your existing water line extensions. Since it is an opportune time to replace the flexible lines, choose a set with an auto leak shut off.
A small valve in the base of the line detects excess water flow and shuts off preventing further damage and flooding. If you are also replacing the sink drain, be sure to specifically check your P-trap setup in case any new o-rings or extensions are needed. Start by shutting off the wall valves and turning on the faucet to drain down residual pressure.
Replacing Bathroom Faucet and Drain Connections
With a bucket handy, use an adjustable wrench to loosen and remove the flexible extension from the faucet. Drain the remaining water into the bucket. Next, remove the flexible line from the shutoff valve. Under the sink, there are typically nuts and washers securing the faucet. Remove any hardware in this area including the clamp bolt from the drain rod extension. Lift the faucet out from the top.
It may need some gentle persuasion from years of corrosion or a sticky base gasket. Faucets can vary greatly among manufacturers, so consult your installation manual. The steps seen here will be generally applicable but might need modification for your particular setup. I find it helpful to mock assemble the part first to better visual what you will likely be feeling and not seeing when laying in a dark cabinet.
Generally, from the top down there will be the spout, a gasket or plumber's putty, the sink or countertop, a large washer or saddle, and a mounting nut.
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In this case plumber's putty is called for instead of a gasket. If you've never worked with plumber's putty before, imagine gray modeling clay. This putty is applied around the new spout base to prevent water splash from running into the cabinet. Install the center spout, and tighten the mounting nut from below with an adjustable wrench.
If you are using a single-hole faucet, you will skip the next steps. Assemble the hot and cold mixing valves. In this case, a large nut and washer tightens the valve from below while a large washer and C-clip holds the valve at the top. Apply plumber's putty to the sculpted bottom side of the top washer. Install the C-clip, and tighten the nut from below. Just as a reminder, the hot and cold valves are left and right respectively.
For this faucet, the top trims are installed by threading onto the mixing valve. Make sure the handle is oriented parallel to the wall in the OFF position prior to threading the trim.
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Next, hook up the water lines from below. Hansgrohe makes solid fixtures. We used all PEX which also makes it easier for homeowners. I like the idea of silicone. I also prefer the single handle vs the double handle. I believe that less moving parts can last longer and single handle faucets can last longer with less repairs. Thanks Pasquale, we feel the same way. Silicone is a more permanent fix for leaks but worth it. We had a small leak at the drain connection to the chrome pipe.
How to Replace a Bathroom Faucet
But after using the Silicone it was solved. The flow is either on full or off. One can control the temperature nicely, but not the flow. Seems like this would be a waste of water in many situations, also the full volume flow tends to blow the toothpaste right off the toothbrush when only a trickle is needed to moisten it. Great point about the flow Floyd. They would probably figure that out and make the twisting action tied in with the volume of water.
Bath Faucet Overview
I am a fan of single lever faucet. It keeps leaking immediately below the nut that secures the drain pipe to the sink when I leave water in the sink for testing purposes. Seems like some capillary action. I had the same problem with the Metris. Just used silicone versus plumbers putty. Will see what happens. Your email address will not be published. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam.
Learn how your comment data is processed. January 6, at The number and configuration of holes for a single-piece faucet are different than those required for a split-set faucet like the one shown here. Use a basin wrench to remove the locknuts and the washers on both tailpieces. If the sink has a pop-up assembly, disconnect it from the faucet and disassemble it to get it out of the way. Then just lift out the faucet. Unpack your new faucet and make sure you have all of the necessary parts.
To make assembly of the new faucet easier, work with the countertop upside down on top of the vanity, as shown. If the countertop is considerably larger than our example, prop it upside down on the floor. Assemble the faucet body and valve components—ideally, working with the countertop turned upside-down.
Thread the washer and mounting nut onto the tailpiece. Then drop the valve assemblies into their holes and tighten them in place. Note the rubber gaskets in the photo: